Recent General Posts
Deep Cleaning Your Home Doesn't Have To Be Overwhelming
10/9/2019 (Permalink)
A cleaning bucket, a broom, and a small vacuum all sitting together on floor ready to begin cleaning! Is your home in need of a deep cleaning?
Sparkling in no time.
When the clock springs forward, it signals a time for renewal, rejuvenation, and refreshing. Along with brighter weather and blossoming buds, spring gives us an opportunity to hit the reset button, and that includes some spring cleaning.
Let’s be honest, though, even Southern women dread cleaning the entire house. But, fortunately, it doesn’t have to be overwhelming or an intense scrubbing session. With a little spring in your step, you can easily put that extra hour of daylight to good use with this simple three-day cleaning guide.
The benefits of cleaning on the weekend allow you to entertain guests for a late Sunday night dinner or free up your time on weekdays. So, get ready to roll up your sleeve, and wake up to a clean home when the alarm sounds on Monday.
Friday Evening: Get Ready
If you’ve had a long day at work or running errands, don’t worry. You won’t actually start cleaning until Saturday. Friday should be reserved for setting a plan in motion, buying the necessary supplies, and finding a place or organization where you can donate all the clothes and personal items you want to give away.
Saturday: Get Set
Using a durable pair of cleaning gloves and wash cloths, wipe up the grease on the stovetop and in the bottom of the oven. You can spray the oven lightly with water and wipe it down with a damp rag.
Next, head to the bedroom. First, remove bed linens, mattress pads, and curtains that need to be washed. In addition to washing the sheets, curtains, and comforters, you’ll want to flip the mattresses and put clean, fresh linens on the beds.
Sweep the floors or vacuum carpets in each bedroom. Cobwebs can be found everywhere, from corners and baseboards to ceilings and corners, so make sure you vacuum and clean those hot spot areas thoroughly.
Dust and polish any nightstands, wood furniture, desks, or bookshelves in each room. If your bedroom has mirrors or glass tabletops, clean those too!
Then, make your way to the bathrooms, and begin by removing the shower liners. If they’re washable, wash them on delicate cycle to get mold and mildew off of the curtains, and hang to dry.
Lastly, spray the shower, tub, and toilet with cleaner. Once the cleaning solution has set, wipe them down and rinse clean. Finish up by sweeping or mopping the bathroom floor. You can place or plug in a few air fresheners in the bedroom or bathroom to really freshen up your home.
Sunday: Go Full Steam Ahead
On Sunday, try to focus on the kitchen, entertaining areas, and living room.
Cleaning will be much easier and efficient when dividing the home into four sections: bedrooms, kitchen, living area, and bathrooms. But, you’ll want to spray the oven with cleaner on Friday night so it can soak overnight.
Vacuum the living area, moving furniture around to get to those hard-to-reach spots. Using the attachment, vacuum cushions, blinds, and curtains for dust bunnies, crumbs, and pet hair.
When the cleaning is done on Sunday, kick up your feet, open up the windows for some fresh air, and congratulate yourself on a job well done. You’ve earned it!
Credit: Michelle Darrisaw, Southern Living
Seven Home Improvement Projects You Won't Want To Postpone
9/25/2019 (Permalink)
Improving or replacing your roof isn't something you want to postpone any longer.
You may think you have all the time in the world to make repairs to your home, but your property has other ideas.
After my wife and I bought our first house five years ago, we began building a subconscious triage list of issues and potential repairs and started addressing them as best we could. We honestly thought that portions of our house and surrounding property would sit around in suspended animation as we dithered with garden beds, insulation, and myriad other projects that now seem incidental at best.
During the next five years, we’d learn the merits of preemptive planning. When a wind storm felled a 110-year-old pignut hickory tree, we became quickly acquainted with arborists, preventative maintenance, and tools like pruning poles and wood chippers. When a a firewood rack nearly fell through our front porch, we learned the value of selecting the right wood and framing for the job. When our water pump seized not once, but three times, we learned that asking for a professional opinion during a small job (like winterization) is better than asking for it before a big job (like a complete pump replacement).
The biggest takeaway from all of these misadventures is that it isn’t just cheaper to address small problems before they become big ones, it’s often inexpensive to address small problems period. I looked back on my own checklist and came up with a few projects where the bill was not only lower than I thought it would’ve been, but low enough to make me wish I’d called someone in sooner.
Tree Pruning
When we first moved to our house, we inherited two legacy trees. One was a 110-year-old pignut hickory and the other was a 125-year-old black walnut. When a windstorm took down the first, we avoided a nearly $900 removal fee, but spent days with chainsaws, hacksaws, a wood chipper and a log splitter cutting apart a gnarled, knotted, dense mass of a tree.
My father-in-law had much of the equipment that we didn’t, but rental charges would’ve brought us to at least half the removal price. We did have to spring for a $230 excavator rental to get rid of the stump, but sprung for $200 tree pruning for the remaining black walnut tree in the years that followed. With each tree right near our garage, and the hickory fortunate enough to fall away from that building, we likely should have addressed pruning far earlier than we did.
Gutter Cleaning
We have a two-story home that dates back to the early 1850s, which means it has an extremely steep roof on its second story and questionable roofs over some of its entrances. I can get the lower gutters and about 20% of the high gutters fairly easily. It’s the 80% of those highest gutters that have irked me for years.
As the folks at HomeAdvisor point out, the average cost of gutter cleaning nationwide is $150, but that can range from $70 for a smaller job to $335 for a mansion-sized property. Ours was slightly less than the average, but well worth it after a series of unusually snowy and icy Oregon winters threatened to pull gutters clean off of the house.
Driveway Repair
We have a gravel driveway that wasn’t in peak condition when we arrived and was replete with ruts and pits before we finally addressed it. Installing a new driveway would’ve cost us thousands, but repairing a gravel driveway costs roughly $40 a ton for 3/4-inch minus — thick gravel with loose fill that settles into gaps left by potholes.
Combined with the $60 rental of a plate compactor, the entire job will cost us less than $400, which is significantly less than the nearly $1,500 cost of having it completely redone. An asphalt driveway, meanwhile, costs about $2 to 2.50 per square foot to repair but $3 to $4 per square foot to replace.
Well Pump
If your house uses well water or you have an irrigation system that runs on well water, it helps to have a float and cutoff switch installed for the months when the well gets low. It also pays to blow out your lines and winterize your pump before things get too cold.
Before we learned any of this, we overheated two well pumps and had a third crack after its remaining water froze. Each replacement was roughly $250 apiece, while winterization cost nothing (just removing bolts and draining the pump) and the float and switch installation cost roughly $180.
Septic Tanks
As soon as we were told that we were moving into a house with a septic tank, we made plans to have it emptied. We didn’t mind the previous owners leaving behind items like curtains, furniture, and appliances, but having their remnants in our septic tank just made me uneasy. We had a crew come in during the spring and empty it for about $275. While that isn’t insignificant, it’s a cost you incur every 10 years and is far less than the $1,551 average cost of repairing a septic system that’s been pushed beyond its limits.
Insulation
In our house’s more than 150 years of existence, insulation seems to have been a nominal concern. There was some old yellow batting in the floor of the attic, but not much beyond that. The first winter’s natural gas bills for heat were substantial, with even the 12-month flat rate exceeding $190 a month.
The following spring, we rented an AttiCat insulation blower for $53 for four hours and blew in 10 bags of R30 insulation at a cost of roughly $340. This year, our flat-rate bill sat at $147 a month: A 22-percent decrease that came in even above EnergyStar’s estimate for our Western Oregon climate zone.
Landscaping
We have laurel bushes and invasive blackberry ringing our property, but the laurel bushes on one side of the house had grown halfway across the yard. We realized in other parts of the yard and in our garden that, if left unchecked, hedges and blackberry would simply consume everything in their path. That said, these laurel bushes and blackberry were about to consume and outbuilding and reach their way toward the house.
We called in a landscaping crew and, $500 later, we had reclaimed much of the yard and given the goats a bunch of laurel and blackberry to munch on. If the previous owners had simply pruned a bit each year, however, that same hedge could’ve been either pruned by professionals for far less or trimmed by the owners for free.
Source: https://www.thesimpledollar.com/x-home-improvement-projects-it-pays-not-to-postpone/
Seven Home Improvement Projects It Pays Not to Postpone
7/30/2018 (Permalink)
Seven Home Improvement Projects It Pays Not to Postpone
You may think you have all the time in the world to make repairs to your home, but your property has other ideas.
After my wife and I bought our first house five years ago, we began building a subconscious triage list of issues and potential repairs and started addressing them as best we could. We honestly thought that portions of our house and surrounding property would sit around in suspended animation as we dithered with garden beds, insulation, and myriad other projects that now seem incidental at best.
During the next five years, we’d learn the merits of preemptive planning. When a wind storm felled a 110-year-old pignut hickory tree, we became quickly acquainted with arborists, preventative maintenance, and tools like pruning poles and wood chippers. When a a firewood rack nearly fell through our front porch, we learned the value of selecting the right wood and framing for the job. When our water pump seized not once, but three times, we learned that asking for a professional opinion during a small job (like winterization) is better than asking for it before a big job (like a complete pump replacement).
The biggest takeaway from all of these misadventures is that it isn’t just cheaper to address small problems before they become big ones, it’s often inexpensive to address small problems period. I looked back on my own checklist and came up with a few projects where the bill was not only lower than I thought it would’ve been, but low enough to make me wish I’d called someone in sooner.
Tree Pruning
When we first moved to our house, we inherited two legacy trees. One was a 110-year-old pignut hickory and the other was a 125-year-old black walnut. When a windstorm took down the first, we avoided a nearly $900 removal fee, but spent days with chainsaws, hacksaws, a wood chipper and a log splitter cutting apart a gnarled, knotted, dense mass of a tree.
My father-in-law had much of the equipment that we didn’t, but rental charges would’ve brought us to at least half the removal price. We did have to spring for a $230 excavator rental to get rid of the stump, but sprung for $200 tree pruning for the remaining black walnut tree in the years that followed. With each tree right near our garage, and the hickory fortunate enough to fall away from that building, we likely should have addressed pruning far earlier than we did.
Gutter Cleaning
We have a two-story home that dates back to the early 1850s, which means it has an extremely steep roof on its second story and questionable roofs over some of its entrances. I can get the lower gutters and about 20% of the high gutters fairly easily. It’s the 80% of those highest gutters that have irked me for years.
As the folks at HomeAdvisor point out, the average cost of gutter cleaning nationwide is $150, but that can range from $70 for a smaller job to $335 for a mansion-sized property. Ours was slightly less than the average, but well worth it after a series of unusually snowy and icy Oregon winters threatened to pull gutters clean off of the house.
Driveway Repair
We have a gravel driveway that wasn’t in peak condition when we arrived and was replete with ruts and pits before we finally addressed it. Installing a new driveway would’ve cost us thousands, but repairing a gravel driveway costs roughly $40 a ton for 3/4-inch minus — thick gravel with loose fill that settles into gaps left by potholes.
Combined with the $60 rental of a plate compactor, the entire job will cost us less than $400, which is significantly less than the nearly $1,500 cost of having it completely redone. An asphalt driveway, meanwhile, costs about $2 to 2.50 per square foot to repair but $3 to $4 per square foot to replace.
Well Pump
If your house uses well water or you have an irrigation system that runs on well water, it helps to have a float and cutoff switch installed for the months when the well gets low. It also pays to blow out your lines and winterize your pump before things get too cold.
Before we learned any of this, we overheated two well pumps and had a third crack after its remaining water froze. Each replacement was roughly $250 apiece, while winterization cost nothing (just removing bolts and draining the pump) and the float and switch installation cost roughly $180.
Septic Tanks
As soon as we were told that we were moving into a house with a septic tank, we made plans to have it emptied. We didn’t mind the previous owners leaving behind items like curtains, furniture, and appliances, but having their remnants in our septic tank just made me uneasy. We had a crew come in during the spring and empty it for about $275. While that isn’t insignificant, it’s a cost you incur every 10 years and is far less than the $1,551 average cost of repairing a septic system that’s been pushed beyond its limits.
Insulation
In our house’s more than 150 years of existence, insulation seems to have been a nominal concern. There was some old yellow batting in the floor of the attic, but not much beyond that. The first winter’s natural gas bills for heat were substantial, with even the 12-month flat rate exceeding $190 a month.
The following spring, we rented an AttiCat insulation blower for $53 for four hours and blew in 10 bags of R30 insulation at a cost of roughly $340. This year, our flat-rate bill sat at $147 a month: A 22-percent decrease that came in even above EnergyStar’s estimate for our Western Oregon climate zone.
Landscaping
We have laurel bushes and invasive blackberry ringing our property, but the laurel bushes on one side of the house had grown halfway across the yard. We realized in other parts of the yard and in our garden that, if left unchecked, hedges and blackberry would simply consume everything in their path. That said, these laurel bushes and blackberry were about to consume and outbuilding an reach their way toward the house.
We called in a landscaping crew and, $500 later, we had reclaimed much of the yard and given the goats a bunch of laurel and blackberry to munch on. If the previous owners had simply pruned a bit each year, however, that same hedge could’ve been either pruned by professionals for far less or trimmed by the owners for free.
Source: https://www.thesimpledollar.com/x-home-improvement-projects-it-pays-not-to-postpone/
Water Heaters Get a New Performance Standard
7/23/2018 (Permalink)
Water Heaters Get a New Performance Standard
The Department of Energy has updated its testing and labeling standards for residential water heaters, replacing Energy Factor (EF) with a new metric called the Uniform Energy Factor (UEF).
Manufacturers say there's nothing different about their water heaters, only the way the government requires performance data to be collected and reported. Consumers shopping for a hot water heater by using the familiar yellow Energy Guides will see more detailed information than in the past.
Rheem Manufacturing said in a fact sheet that the new standard more accurately reflects real world use and should help consumers make "applies-to-apples" comparisons of different brands. The new rules took effect in June 2017, but manufacturers are still working with code officials and consumers to explain what they mean.
Development of the UEF was prompted by a 2012 law passed by Congress requiring the Department of Energy (DOE) to either revise the old EF metric or create a new one. The department decided to develop a completely new standard and test procedures that all manufacturers must follow, Rheem said.
Rheem suggested that part of the problem with the EF protocol was that manufacturers were interpreting it differently, a potentially confusing situation for consumers.
"Due to inconsistent, unreliable interpretations of High Efficiency (EF) ratings across national brands, all water heating manufacturers are now required to comply with the new DOE testing procedures and rating standards," the company's explainer said.
A.O. Smith explained in its own fact sheet that water heaters are now placed in one of four "bins," based on anticipated hot water usage. The bins are "very small" (10 gallons of daily hot water use); "low" (38 gallons); "medium" (55 gallons); and "high" (84 gallons). Based on the first-hour delivery, a water heater gets a UEF within its bin, with higher UEFs representing greater energy efficiency and lower operating costs.
First-hour ratings, rather than nominal hot water capacity, are key. Bradford White said in an online statement that testing protocols for first-hour hot water delivery have been revamped, resulting in new values for the same appliances.
A.O. Smith cautioned that only UEFs within the same bin should be compared. A "high" bin water heater with a UEF of 0.95, for example, will not have the same efficiency as a "low" bin water heater with an identical UEF.
Shopping by the Energy Guide label
Consumers shopping in a local big box store for a water heater will continue to see the yellow "Energy Guide" labels that list some of the performance specs, like the sample label for a tankless heater shown at the top of this column.
Revised energy labels include several pieces of information:
- Storage capacity. For tank style water heaters, storage capacity shows the exact amount of hot water the tank will hold, not just a nominal capacity. Tankless water heaters list gallons per minute.
- First hour rating: This is the amount of hot water a consumer can expect to get in the first hour, starting with a full tank of hot water. Results are organized by bin.
- The most prominent number is the "Estimated Yearly Energy Cost." Like the old labels, this one shows a range of energy costs among similar models and an estimate of how much the consumer will spend for hot water with this particular appliance.
What's missing? The UEF. Nowhere on the label is the numerical value the new testing protocol should produce.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which administers rules about the label, didn't answer an emailed question about why the UEF is missing, and referred questions to the Department of Energy. The DOE didn't reply to a request for more information.
However, Joshua Greene, vice president for government and industry affairs at A.O. Smith, said by telephone that during the rule-making process, the industry recommended that the UEF be included on Energy Guide labels. The FTC decided against it.
"We as an industry collectively recommended to the FTC that the applicable UEF number for that particular water heater be part of the yellow guide label," he said. "The rationale the FTC gave back to us as to why they were not going to take that recommendation is that that would be one step more than a consumer would have to figure out, and not truly having the intuitive understanding to go through what the UEF really means.
"They felt the more pertinent information was the annualized cost of that water heater to them as a consumer," he continued, "that in the end that was more tangible, more understandable rather than shopping by UEF number and bin."
Greene added the issue would be revisited with the FTC in 2019, when manufacturers get another crack at convincing officials to add the UEF to labeling. He also said the industry had tried to convince DOE to write a primer about the UEF for consumers but so far had not been successful. "We're not there yet," he said.
You can still get the UEF
Shoppers who want to compare similarly sized models by UEF can still do so. One source of information are the manufacturers' own web pages. A.O. Smith, Rheem, and Bradford White, for example, all list the UEF on product descriptions posted at their websites.
Or, Greene said, consumers can call customer support numbers for any manufacturer and ask for the UEF from the product's spec sheet.
More detailed information is available by checking a published list of minimum UEF standards for water heaters of various types.
Buyers who don't want to wade into the details can always use an interactive product selector, like the one A.O. Smith offers at Hotwater.com or the less detailed selector from Rheem.
Mixed reviews
The new test procedures got a mixed reaction from the Appliance Standards Awareness Project (ASAP) when they were announced in 2014.
In a blog posted by the American Council for an Energy-Efficiency Economy, then senior analyst Anthony Fryer said the new procedures were designed to measure energy consumption more accurately for newer types of water heaters, such as tankless, heat pump, and condensing gas water heaters. That was the good news.
But Fryer was critical of the decision not to test heat-pump water heaters (HPWH) at low ambient temperatures, when the devices fall back on built-in electric-resistance elements. Those elements use three times as much energy as the heat pump.
"Because of this sensitivity to low ambient temperature, performance can vary depending on where in the house the unit is installed and what region of the country the house is located in," he wrote. "This means that a unit installed in an unconditioned basement in northern Minnesota is likely to perform very differently from one installed in a garage in Florida."
Heat pump compressors on some models shut down at temperatures as high as 57°F while others continue to operate at 30°F, he said. Rather than factor that into the test protocol, DOE decided to test the water heaters at an ambient temperature of between 66.5 and 68.5°F.
"New water heating technologies offer enormous energy savings potential, and the new DOE test procedure goes part of the way to ensure that all water heaters are tested fairly and accurately," he said. "We hope and expect that it will not be long before DOE revises its test method again to better reflect how HPWHs perform in colder temperatures."
Asked whether those concerns remain true today, Chris Granda of the ASAP said by email:
"Testing HPWH at 70 degrees F ambient can result in significantly lower annual electricity consumption than testing at more realistic ambient temperatures because at the higher ambient temperatures HPWH tend to use less resistance heating. That said, HPWH technology continues to evolve and we haven’t reevaluated the current crop of products to see whether the low-temperature cut-out concern is still relevant. In short, ASAP still has this concern, but it requires more study and at the moment there isn’t a water heater rulemaking that we could use to encourage DOE to change the test procedure anyway."
Source: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-news/water-heaters-get-new-performance-standard
How to Save Money on Your Electricity and Water Bills
7/16/2018 (Permalink)
How to Save Money on Your Electricity and Water Bills
While you want to be comfortable in your home, it’s possible to achieve this goal while also saving money. Making small adjustments that you will barely notice can result in significant savings. Keep reading to discover ways to save money on your electricity and water bills.
Stop using your toilet as a wastebasket. “Every time you flush a facial tissue or other small bits of trash, five to seven gallons of water is wasted,” according to Doyle James, president of Mr. Rooter Plumbing.
James also recommends that you refrain from using your garbage disposal so frequently. “In-sink ‘garburators’ require lots of water to operate properly,” he explains. “Start a compost pile as an alternate method of disposing of food waste.”
If you wash your dishes by hand, stop leaving the water running when you’re rinsing them. “If you have a double-basin, fill one with soapy water and one with rinse water,” James says. “If you have a single-basin sink, gather washed dishes in a dish rack and rinse them with a spray device or a pan full of hot water.”
Your water heater accounts for 12% of your electric bill. If you have an older system, James says flushing sediments out of it will improve energy efficiency. However, if the water heater is 15-20 years old, he tells Freshome that replacing it will generate substantial savings. “Tankless ‘on-demand’ systems don’t store water, offering savings up to 30 percent; however, the latest hybrid heat pump systems offer even greater savings – reducing water heating costs up to a whopping 60 percent,” James explains.
Your ceiling fan can lower your energy costs during the summer. According to Richard Ciresi, owner of the Aire Serv of Louisville, KY, ceiling fans create a wind chill effect, allowing you to adjust thermostat settings by 4-7 degrees F (up to 30% savings!) and still remain comfortable. However, make sure that the fan is going in a counterclockwise motion during the summer, and turn it off when you leave the room, because fans cool people, not rooms.
Ciresi also recommends upgrading your lighting. “Lighting accounts for up to 12% of your energy budget, and those old school incandescents give off 90% of their energy as heat, taking a toll on your air conditioner.” He recommends replacing your lightbulbs with CFLs (use 75% less energy and last 10x longer) or LEDs (use 80% less and last 25x longer).
Leave your thermostat alone. You don’t need to cool an empty house. “This practice can actually increase your utility bills,” Ciresi warns. “We recommend, particularly during hot weather, that you set the thermostat to a comfortable temperature and leave it be.” Also, he says the constant temperature change isn’t beneficial to your art, musical instruments, or furnishings.
Observe your humidity levels. If they’re above 50%, Ciresi says you’ll feel warmer than the air temperature. “In most cases lower humidity allows you to be comfortable at slightly higher temperatures, often as much as 78 degrees,” he says. And if you can be comfortable at higher temps, you can save a lot in energy costs. “If your humidity is too high, check for a source like a leaking basement, roof, or plumbing fixture – you may need to a call an air conditioning professional to determine the cause and provide a solution.”
Changing the time you use large appliances can also help you save money. “Operate dishwashers, washers, and dryers only when full, preferable at night or when temperatures are cooler,” recommends Doug Rogers, president of Mr. Appliance. “Also, remember that refrigerators/freezers use less energy when full and make sure to pack them accordingly.
Small appliances – microwaves, toasters, TVs, DVDs – are energy vampires that consume small amounts of energy even when they’re not in use. “Don’t let them drain your budget,” Rogers says. “Plug them into power strips so you can turn them off when you’re not using them.”
If your windows are not properly sealed, this can account for 20% of your home’s energy loss, according to Larry Patterson, franchisee of Glass Doctor in Dallas, TX. If your home was built before 2001, he says the most cost-efficient approach is to keep the window frame material and replace the existing clear glass insulated units with new low-emissivity (low-e) glass insulated units. “This can help save up to 35% on utility bills, while also leading to increased comfort near windows, reduced fading, and less noise.”
Source: https://freshome.com/save-money-electricity-water-bills/
10 Green Remodeling Tips for an Eco-Friendly Home
6/18/2018 (Permalink)
Green Home Ideas
A shift is taking place in the home building and remodeling industry. Green home renovations, long thought of as too expensive or complex, are more affordable and achievable than ever.
At the same time, homeowners are increasingly concerned with their impact on the environment. That’s why words like energy-efficient, sustainable and recyclable are becoming central to the homebuilding process. On top of that, increasing labor and material costs have a new generation of homebuyers rethinking the entire building and renovation process.
Complete an Energy Audit
Before digging into any major green home renovations, it’s important to know how your home is performing currently. Window and door leaks, outdated appliances and inefficient HVAC systems don’t exactly equate to an efficient, eco-friendly home. Knowing the root of the problem is the first step in completing a green remodel.
Many homeowners end up shocked at how much energy (and money) their home is wasting. Trained professionals can show you exactly where your house is leaking energy or air and provide solutions for problem spots.
To find a certified energy rater for a home energy audit, the U.S. Department of Energy recommends using the Residential Energy Service Network directory. You can also do a DIY energy audit on your own.
DIY Home Energy Audit Checklist:
- Check doors and windows for drafts.
- Inspect HVAC and ventilation systems.
- Use an electricity monitor to find out how much energy your appliances are using.
- Replace older lightbulbs with CFLs, LEDs or eco-incandescent bulbs.
- Examine your home’s insulation, in both the attic and walls.
Upgrade to Eco-Friendly Windows
Drafty windows are the bane of eco-friendly homes. If yours are taking a toll on your heating and air usage, it may be time to upgrade to more modern, energy-efficient windows.
Using materials that are sustainably sourced is also important for a successful green home remodeling job. For instance, cellular PVC is a popular, energy-efficient window material, but it is produced using a process that releases toxins into the earth’s atmosphere. Here are a few green remodeling tips for purchasing responsibly produced windows.
Tips for Buying Eco-Friendly Windows:
- Aluminum and steel are recyclable but offer little insulation, making them inefficient.
- Vinyl, like PVC, is made using a toxic, highly inefficient production process.
- Double and triple-pane glass cost more, but will insulate your home better.
- Sustainably-harvested wooden frames are a good choice for eco-friendly windows.
- Fiberglass window frames are made from sand, a virtually limitless resource.
Choose Locally Sourced Materials
Choosing an eco-friendly product is great, but if it has to be shipped across the country, it’s hard to say it’s truly green. Buying locally sourced materials requires far less energy to get the products to your door. Additionally, local professionals are a valuable resource, as their knowledge of nearby communities, the types of homes in the area and even the local climate can be very useful to you and your project.
Beyond supporting small businesses, going local also enables you to choose climate-appropriate materials, making your home more energy-efficient overall.
Switch to Low VOC Paints
Volatile organic compounds, or “VOCs,” are chemicals that evaporate and enter the air at ordinary room temperatures, and they are common in many paints. The VOCs in interior paint come from petroleum-based solvents used in their production.
Low VOC interior paints use water in place of these solvents. Using no or low VOC interior paints lowers the amount of harmful emissions in your home, while also minimizing your consumption of petroleum, a non-renewable resource, making this a great project to add to your list of eco-friendly home improvements.
Best Low VOC Paints for a Green Home Remodel:
- Aura ® Bath and Spa
- ben ® Interior Paint
- Harmony Interior Acrylic Latex
- ProMar 400 Zero VOC Interior Latex
- Resilience Exterior Acrylic Latex
Insulate Your Home
Wall cavities – the insulated spaces between an inner and outer wall of your home – are often overlooked during green home remodeling projects. However, they can make or break your home’s efficiency. Luckily, there are green solutions that are both inexpensive and effective.
Blowing cellulose is a quick fix since it can often be blown over insulation that’s already there. On top of that, many states offer rebate programs for completing this eco-friendly renovation project. Here’s a thorough guide on picking insulation for your home.
Go for a Passive Solar Home Design
Going solar is a great green remodeling project, but you can harness the power of the sun without dropping your entire budget on new solar panels. Passive solar home design is the art of using the sun to your advantage, allowing it to warm your home in the winter while blocking it out in the summer. You’ll be surprised at what a difference some simple changes can make.
Green Home Renovations for Passive Solar Home Design:
- Focus renovations on the sides of your home that receive the most sun.
- Plant seasonal trees that block sunlight in the summer, but allow it in during the winter.
- Choose smart blinds that open and close with light and temperature changes.
- Install a solar chimney to improve your home’s heating and ventilation.
- Apply heat reducing film to your windows.
- Add eave overhangs or awnings to block direct sunlight from reaching your windows.
And if you’re ever looking for that final push from passive solar to the real thing, remember that “panels will start paying YOU money in under 10 years,” according to Roskowinski.
Replace Old Appliances
Spending thousands on a new fridge may not be the most cost-effective green remodeling tip, so this tip really depends on your budget and how important new appliances are to you. Either way, it’s important to keep in mind that older appliances were built without efficiency in mind. That means your refrigerator, stove, dishwasher and washer/dryer could be sucking up excess energy by the minute.
ENERGY STAR provides a great list of resources for checking how much money and energy appliances with their certification can save you. You can also take advantage of rebate programs to get additional dollars back.
Install a Smart Home Thermostat
One of the best and most popular green remodeling tips today is to install a smart home thermostat. Smart home thermostats can be connected to most electronic devices and controlled from afar, which allows you to adjust your home’s heating and cooling even when you aren’t there.
Some thermostats can even detect when you’ve left the house and adjust the temperature on their own. Installing a smart home thermostat is a great way to cut down your energy bill and increase your home’s efficiency.
Best Smart Home Thermostats for a Green Remodel:
- Nest
- Ecobee4
- Honeywell Wi-Fi Thermostats
- KONO Smart Thermostat
Add Skylights to Increase Natural Light
If you hate the idea of using lamps in the middle of the day, try adding skylights to light your home naturally. While it might not be cost-effective to install them in every room, you can strategically place skylights in the most commonly used areas during the day, such as the kitchen, living room or guest bathroom. Remember to fit your skylights with automated blinds to block the sun when needed. Used correctly, skylights can be a great eco-friendly remodeling project for your home and help cut down on your overall electricity use.
Use Responsibly-Sourced Hardwood Flooring
Hardwood flooring is one of the greenest flooring options available, provided you choose responsibly sourced wood. One way to do this is to use FSC Certified wood. The Forest Stewardship Council, or FSC, is dedicated to ensuring that their members market only sustainably harvested and produced hardwood products. By using businesses that sell FSC Certified wood, you’re supporting efforts to keep our forests green and plentiful.
We asked Columbia Forest Products, a provider of FSC Certified products, for advice on buying responsibly forested hardwood flooring:
FSC Certified Hardwood Flooring Companies for a Green Home Remodel:
- Columbia Forest Products
- Northland Forest Products
- American Pole & Timber
- Certified Wood Products
- US Floors
Additionally, Home Depot makes an effort to stock FSC Certified products – call your local store to see what options they have available. For a full list of FSC Certified Wood providers, check the Forest Stewardship Council’s Member List.
Source: https://www.budgetdumpster.com/blog/green-remodeling-tips/
5 Unfinished Attic Storage Ideas That Will Help You Find What You’re Looking For
4/30/2018 (Permalink)
5 Unfinished Attic Storage Ideas That Will Help You Find What You’re Looking For
Do you dread every minute you spend in your drafty old attic looking for that egg poacher you got last year? If so, it might be time to change up your storage method (or lack thereof). These five unfinished attic storage ideas will allow you to easily find what you’re looking for without spending an afternoon digging through boxes.
Storage Idea #1: Store Everything in Labeled Boxes
The first idea you should consider is pretty simple: label and box everything. Lisa Zaslow of Gotham Organizers recommends using different colors to help group like-items together:
“Color code your boxes so you’ll know at a glance what’s inside – whether it’s holiday decorations, entertaining items, off-season clothing or sports stuff. Add BIG, clear labels to the sides of the boxes too.”
As for the boxes themselves, sturdy plastic containers are a worthwhile investment since you can easily stack them to take advantage of all that vertical space. Plus, they’ll protect your belongings from the wildly different temperatures in your attic.
A Few Safety Tips to Follow While Organizing Your Attic
- Make sure you can see what you’re storing. Add a few inexpensive floor lamps if you have outlets, or battery powered lanterns if you don’t.
- Make sure the floor is sturdy enough to support extra weight. Rope off any no-go areas.
- Take into account the extreme conditions that can exist in attics – they can get very hot and very cold, very damp or very dry, and dusty. They can also be habitats for critters!
Lisa Zaslow | Gotham Organizers
Storage Idea #2: Place Your Boxes in Between Trusses
One of the most useful storage spaces in your attic are the gaps between each truss. However, the floor space between each gap might not be sturdy enough to support the weight of a few boxes. Fortunately, there’s one clever attic shelving idea you can use in this situation. A company called AtticMaxx makes shelving units that fit in between most trusses, capable of holding up to 50 pounds each.
Each shelving unit is pre-assembled. All you have to do is attach the brackets on either side of the shelf to the trusses, then screw in the adjustable straps. Each shelf is 22 inches wide, giving you plenty of space for your boxes. With all the boxes to the side, you can use the main floor of your attic for the big things, such as furniture or luggage.
Storage Idea #3: Install Rods for Your Extra Clothing
Do you keep your off-season clothes in the attic? Rather than boxing them up, treat your attic space as an expansion of your closet. You can install clothing rods along the slant of your ceiling and/or trusses.
Simply head to the hardware store and buy a clothing rod of your desired length, along with the brackets and screws you need to mount it. Make sure you use a level!
Storage Idea #4: Add as Many Shelves as Possible
Another attic storage idea is to splurge on more shelves. Lisa Zaslow suggests using inexpensive plastic or metal shelving as a budget-friendly way to maximize the storage space of your attic. You can find standalone shelving units in a variety of sizes, allowing you to fill in every little nook and cranny with your odds and ends.
Storage Idea #5: Put the Least Important Stuff in the Back
Lastly, make sure you account for the items you’ll use most often. Things like holiday decorations or important documents should be kept in the back of your attic, while items you occasionally use, such as that egg poacher, should be stored front and center.
“Don’t make it a pain – literally – to retrieve things. Put things you’re less likely to use (like old tax files) in the far reaches of the attic and where the ceiling is lowest.”
Lisa Zaslow | Gotham Organizers
Once you start using these attic storage ideas, you’ll be able to find everything you keep up there in record time.
Source: https://www.budgetdumpster.com/blog/attic-storage-ideas/
Happy Valentine's Day!
2/14/2018 (Permalink)
Happy Valentine's Day from SERVPRO of McMinn, Monroe, and Polk Counties.
We love our customers! Happy Valentine's Day!
Make Your House Gutters Work Better In The Winter: 5 Ways To Prevent Ice Dams & Roof Ice Melt
1/29/2018 (Permalink)
Winter Ice Gutters
Even if you keep your rain gutters clean and in good shape, problems such as ice buildup, ice dams, and icicles can still cause major structural damage to your home.
Yes, even gutters that are properly installed and of the best quality will strain under heavy snow loads and brutal ice.Here are 5 things you can do to your house gutters to help them work more efficiently — especially through the winter months!
#1 – Install gutter guards.
Gutter guards reduce debris — like autumn leaves and winter snow accumulation — which can cause blockage or weight-bearing damage to your rain gutters.
No gutter guard is perfect, though. Even high-quality gutter guards can’t completely prevent accumulation — so regular gutter cleaning and inspection are still recommended.
Experts weigh in on the pros & cons of installing gutter guards.
#2 – Add heating elements to your house gutters.
Gutter heating cables will melt snow and ice, preventing buildup and ice dams as well as decreasing the weight load on your gutters.
How? The gutter heaters keep the water above freezing in both the gutters and the downspouts – allowing it to flow freely away from your house. Keep in mind, this is actually a bandaid for the true source of the problem. (See #3 below.)
TIP: Heating cables and gutter heating systems should come with thermostatic controls so you can just flip a switch to turn them on when necessary, preventing overheating and excessive electricity use.#3 – Improve your attic insulation and venting.
Heat from inside your home causes snow to melt on the roof. The subsequent runoff may refreeze in your gutters — eventually building up and causing destructive ice dams.
So you ultimately want to keep your roof cold in the winter months.
How?
- By reinforcing the insulation in the space under the roof; and
- By making sure that space has adequate ventilation.
Doing those 2 things will significantly decrease the heat buildup and snow melt from your roof.
#4 – Reinforce your gutters with bracing hardware or gutter brackets.
Even properly installed house gutters can fail during a heavy snowfall — unless you add some additional support.
Gutter brackets serve 2 purposes:
- Reinforce the existing anchors to increase the gutter’s load-bearing capacity.
- Decrease weakening of the gutter or outright structural damage from too much weight.
#5 – Add an ice & water membrane to your roof.
Ice and water barriers installed in your home’s roofing system will help prevent damage caused by moisture.
Most houses have ice and water membranes installed underneath the shingles of the roof during the construction phase. However, even if yours is an older home, you may benefit significantly from an upgrade to the roofing system.
You’ll probably want to wait until you actually need a new roof though — it will be much more affordable to add the ice and water barriers at that time.
When you’re faced with a blizzard, ice storm, mounting snow, and bitter chill, the last thing you want to do is get up on the roof to do major repairs.
By using some or all of these gutter aids, you can reinforce the strength and efficiency of your home’s gutter system. Now your gutters will be strong enough to endure even the harshest winter!
Source: https://household-tips.thefuntimesguide.com/winter-house-gutters/
16 Ways to Make Your Home More Energy-Efficient
1/22/2018 (Permalink)
Energy Efficient Home
We’re fortunate to be living in an era dominated by technology and innovation. Smart technology, transportation efficiencies and useful apps are everywhere, making it easier for all of us to live more efficiently. So, with all of this amazing innovation, I often wonder why so many people still aren’t living greener.
If all of us made just one eco-friendly change, we would significantly impact the Earth, our communities and our energy bills. In case some of you are willing to make small changes but don’t know what to do to be energy-efficient, here are 16 things you can do to be greener at home. I’ve included low-cost and big-ticket changes you can make.
Low-Cost Savings
Lower Your Thermostat
Adopt the habit of lowering the temperature on your thermostat while away from home. Dropping the temp by just three to five degrees will reduce your monthly utility bill and use less energy. According to Energy.gov, lowering your thermostat by 10 to 15 degrees during the work day will save 5% to 15% every year.
Start a Compost Pile
You don’t need a ton of space in your backyard to start a compost pile. Compost is the result of organic waste that’s kept in a pile or container that decomposes over time. Your fruit and vegetable waste not only becomes valuable fertilizer for your lawn or garden, but it reduces the amount of trash you produce on a daily basis.
Install Low-Flow Showerheads
Installing low-flow showerheads improves your home’s water efficiency. Low-flow showerheads have a flow rate of less than 2.5 gpm (gallons per minute), while most conventional showerheads use 5 gallons per minute. Mother Earth will thank you!
Seal All Windows
Go the extra mile by sealing the air leaks in and around the windows in your home. If your windows are drafty, consider adding weatherstripping around the frames. Add a bead of silicone caulk over any cracks in your drywall or apply a sheet of shrink film to your windows. Sealing gaps and cracks is an easy and inexpensive way to lower energy costs.
Limit Space Heater Use
Although electric and gas space heaters keep your feet nice and toasty in cooler weather, they aren’t the most efficient way to heat your home. Many space heaters use 1,500 watts of energy to run and are considered to be a costly way to drain your energy bill. Be sure the model of your space heater is energy-efficient; consider layering clothing or investing in blankets instead of cranking up your thermostat.
Turn Off Unnecessary Water
According the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the average homeowner can save about $170 a year with small changes to their water usage. Be conscious of running water while brushing your teeth or shaving. Also, bathing typically uses 75 gallons of water compared to a shower that uses about 17.2 gallons on average. You also should avoid running half-loads of laundry in your washer. A full load means more clothes get washed at once, which in turn conserves water (and money).
Replace Incandescent Bulbs
In 2014, manufacturers stopped producing 60-watt and 40-watt incandescent lightbulbs (100-watt and 75-watt bulbs were already phased out). But we’re not doomed to live in the dark. Halogen bulbs, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) and light-emitting diode (LED) bulbs offer longer lasting light and are more energy-efficient than your old incandescent bulbs. Since the average home uses 40 bulbs, switching over to greener bulbs is a great way to save on your electrical bill.
Unplug Unused Chargers
Cell phone and battery chargers that are plugged in but not in use are often referred to as energy vampires. According to Energy.gov, the average charger consumes 0.26 watts of energy when not in use and 2.24 watts when connected to your phone. Alone, one charger won’t make much impact, but collectively energy vampires can be responsible for 10% of your energy bill. So, unplug your chargers when not in use.
Don’t Wash with Hot Water
Avoid running your washer with hot water and opt for cold or warm water when possible. According to Treehugger.com, 90% of the energy used by your washer is used to heat the water, and the other 10% is used to run the machine. This means using cooler water for every load can potentially save a significant amount of energy.
Big-Ticket Ideas
Add Insulation to Your Attic
Adding insulation to your attic can help seal air leaks and improve your home’s heating and cooling costs. The amount of insulation needed to cover your attic depends on your home’s size and the climate in your region, but according to HomeAdvisor.com, the average cost to blow in additional insulation into your attic is $1,356.
Install Solar Panels
Although solar panels aren’t exactly cheap, they’re becoming a popular way to heat hot water and generate electricity for homes. Solar panels have many benefits! They help you save money on energy bills in the long run, promote lower fossil fuel usage and may help you qualify for annual tax incentives. Typically, they are installed on your roof and cut your electricity costs by generating energy independently of your utility company. Consider the do’s and don’ts of home solar panel systems.
Install a Storm Door
Even if you have an energy-efficient front or side door, adding a storm door gives you an extra layer of protection from the weather year-round. Storm doors typically have low-emissivity glass or a protective coating that can help reduce energy loss by up to 50%, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Most storm doors last between 25 and 50 years and can cost as little as $75.
Perform an Energy Audit
Consider hiring a professional energy auditor to your home and evaluate the inefficiencies and wasted energy in your home. A certified and trained auditor will inspect in and around your home to pinpoint savings opportunities and identify areas that need improvements. Auditors typically charge by the square footage of your house or by the hour.
Buy Energy Star Products
Energy Star products, such as refrigerators, televisions, stoves, washers and air conditioners, meet energy-efficient specifications set by the EPA. Energy Star-qualified appliances use 10-50% less energy than standard appliances and help reduce emissions of greenhouse gases. If you plan to replace an appliance soon, consider getting an Energy Star-certified product.
Tune Up Your HVAC System
An annual tune-up on your heating and cooling system will ensure that your furnace and A/C are running at peak efficiency, which will save you money every month. A home heating and cooling check-up improves efficiency by ensuring connections are tightened, parts are properly lubricated and coils are cleaned. Tuning up your HVAC system can also help you avoid replacing your furnace, which can cost between $2,000 and $8,000.
Replace Your Desktop Computer
Most tech experts estimate that you should replace your computer every four years. When the time comes for your desktop computer, consider replacing it with a laptop. According to SmallBusinessChron.com, laptops use up to 80% less electricity and run on less energy. Laptop computers typically peak at a maximum energy draw of only 60 watts, whereas most desktops peak around 175 watts. Laptops don’t come with a cheap price tag, but they are greener.
Seriously, everyone should be able to find at least one or two things on this list to do to green-ify their home. Below, share other ways to create an energy-efficient home.
Source: https://www.quickenloans.com/blog/16-ways-to-make-your-home-more-energy-efficient
Happy Valentine's Day
1/9/2018 (Permalink)
Happy Valentine's Day from SERVPRO of McMinn, Monroe, and Polk Counties.
We love our customers! Happy Valentine's Day!
How to Use Space Heaters Safely
1/8/2018 (Permalink)
Space heater in the home.
When Jack Frost comes nipping at your nose, it's time to turn up the heat. For many people, this just means raising the temperature on the central heating system's thermostat. In many cases, though, you only need heat in a small area for a brief time, and it makes more sense to use a space heater than to heat the whole house.
The best way to use a space heater to save money is to only heat one room, but leave the rest of your home cooler. That said, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) reminds us that space heaters account for 1/3 of all home fires and 4 out of 5 home heating fire deaths, so paying close attention to safety is a must.
Whatever your reasons for using a space heater, here are tips to help you choose, use, and maintain yours so you can stay safely toasty warm, even when the weather outside is frightful.
No matter what type or brand of space heater you opt to use, follow these safety tips from the NFPA to reduce the chances of fires and injury:
- Keep anything that can burn, including bedding, furniture, and curtains at least 3 feet away from a space heater.
- Have a three-foot "kid-free zone" around space heaters and never use a space heater in a child's bedroom.
- Run power cords on top of carpet and step over them to avoid abrading the cord. Do not use extension cords.
- Turn off space heaters when going to bed or leaving a room.
- Don't use a space heater in a damp or wet area unless it's specifically made for that purpose.
- Turn space heaters off before leaving the room or going to bed.
- Never put a space heater on a countertop unless it's specifically designed for it.
- Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms and test monthly.
- Only purchase "UL Listed" heaters which display the UL mark on their label. This is an independent organization which tests for safety.
- Don't use gas- or oil-burning space heaters indoors, only outdoors or in spaces open to the outdoors like tents or porches.
- Read and follow all manufacturer's directions for your space heater.
Space heaters heat you and the room they occupy in two ways: through radiant heat and convection. Radiant heat is like the warmth you feel when sunlight hits your skin. The closer you are to the space heater, the more of the radiant warmth you'll feel. Convection happens when air surrounding the heater is heated. That hot air rises toward the ceiling, pulling surrounding cool air toward the heater, where that air is heated and also begins to rise. Air at the ceiling then begins to cool and fall, until it's drawn toward the heater once again. This is called a convection loop and, while air toward the ceiling will tend to feel warmer, the convective loop will eventually help to heat the whole room. A heater with an integrated fan will naturally spread more of the heat farther from the heater than relying on convection alone, warming a room more evenly and quickly.
Gas- and Oil-Burning Space Heaters
Gas/propane/kerosene space heaters, due to the fact that they produce dangerous combustion gases from burning fuel, should only be used in well-ventilated areas open to the outdoors. This includes areas like tents, screened porches, or new construction homes before the windows and doors are installed. It's best to find a model with a low-oxygen shut-off or oxygen depletion sensor. This safety feature automatically detects when oxygen levels are getting dangerously low in a space, and stops fuel from flowing to the heater, shutting off the flame.
Output for gas- and oil-burning space heaters is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). Smaller heaters may have outputs of 4,000 to 9,000 BTUs, which is enough to heat a 200 square-foot tent. Medium-sized heaters will have outputs of 12,000 to 30,000 BTUs, which will heat a space of 600-800 square feet. Larger, commercial grade propane heaters combine propane heat with a powerful electric fan to heat much larger spaces. These units can reach 150,000 to 200,000 BTUs and can heat spaces over 3,000 square feet.
Caution: While "vent-free" gas heaters for residential use do exist, they are only safe if very carefully monitored and maintained. The safety of vent-free units relies on all of the catalytic and safety elements to be clean and in good working order to function properly at all times. If sensors or elements become dusty or dirty, the performance of a vent free unit can be compromised. Even with a properly maintained unit, burning of gas creates not only dangerous combustion gases, but also a surprising amount of water vapor. Aside from safety issues, excessive use of a vent-free gas heater indoors can result in moisture problems like mold, mildew, and condensation damage of wooden windows. Ideally, all gas heaters for indoor use should have sealed combustion chambers which are properly vented to the outdoors.
For indoor use, electric models come in many shapes and sizes, but all work in a similar way. They pass electricity through a poorly conducting substance, which resists the electricity passing through it, producing heat. That's why this type of heat is also called "resistance heating." Regardless of whether the heater uses wire, ceramic, quartz, or radiator-type elements, they all work essentially the same way. Some will use a highly reflective backing to concentrate radiant heat in one direction. Ceramic and quartz heaters aim to keep the surface of the heater cool to the touch.
The best electric space heaters employ safety features like a tip-over switch, overheat sensor, and touch sensor (which shuts the unit off if the grill is touched, to prevent burns), to make them as safe as possible. A space heater that features a longer, heavy-duty power cord will mean you won't need an extension cord. Under-sized and frayed power cords are a major source of fire danger.
To determine how much heat an electric space heater will produce, look at the output, which is measured in watts. Generally speaking, outputs range from 400 to 1,500 watts. Most modern models will allow you to adjust the output over a given range.
One of the more advantageous features on an electric space heater is a built-in fan. A built-in fan will spread heat over a wider area as it circulates air through the heater and the room. An integrated fan also means that a heater will heat up an area faster. Space heaters with a thermostat will automate the heater's operation, so you don't have to continually turn it on and off manually to keep a space from getting too warm for comfort. Larger units may even include faux wood cabinets and faux flames for a warmer, fireplace-like look.
If you've turned to a space heater because your home is constantly cold and drafty in the winter, you may end up spending more money on energy in the long run than necessary. Electric space heaters are inherently inefficient as a heating source. As a matter of fact, the Department of Energy's EnergyStar program doesn't certify space heaters in the EnergyStar program for this reason. A central heat pump or gas furnace, even an older model, is likely much more efficient at heating your home. That's why it's important not to use a space heater as anything more than a temporary bandage for spot heating. Instead, solve the real problem: the poor efficiency of your home's shell. Spend a modest amount of money to insulate and air-seal your home to stop cold air infiltration and retain heat from your existing central heat system. Improving the energy efficiency of your home's shell will save you money and make your home a more comfortable and safer place to live in the long run.
Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/electrical-and-wiring/tips-on-using-space-heaters
Merry Christmas
12/25/2017 (Permalink)
Merry Christmas
We wish you a very Merry Christmas!
Restoration specialist SERVPRO cautions homeowners to take common sense precautions throughout the holiday season
12/4/2017 (Permalink)
Have a safe holiday season with SERVPRO.
Most homeowners are aware holiday decorations should be used with care. Each year, statistics tell the story of the fire danger resulting from frayed wires, proximity to heat sources, and lights left on unattended. But disaster recovery specialist SERVPRO wants homeowners to know that the danger of fire caused by holiday decorating, and by Christmas trees specifically, actually increases after the holiday. Citing research from the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the fire and water damage experts at SERVPRO say while four out of five Christmas tree fires happen in December and January, the 10 days with the highest average number of fires were all after Christmas Day.
"For many families, preparing for the holiday season is a very busy time," said Sue Steen, SERVPRO Industries, Inc. chief executive officer. "Come December 26, it’s tempting to relax and stop watering the Christmas tree, replacing bulbs in outdoor lights and tucking indoor garlands back into place. Dry greens, open sockets and decorations that slip dangerously close to light sockets or fireplaces can all increase the risk of fire in the days after the Christmas holiday."
The American Christmas Tree Association quotes Nielsen research that says Americans purchased 21.6 million live Christmas trees in 2011. That number is significant because, according to the NFPA, Christmas trees remain the number one culprit in holiday fires. Forty-three percent of Christmas tree fires happen in December, but January is close behind, claiming 39 percent—numbers that demonstrate the danger of allowing Christmas trees to dry out during and after the holiday season. Tragically, Christmas tree fires are particularly deadly, claiming on average one life in every 40 fires compared to an average of one death per 142 total reported home fires.
Steen encourages homeowners who choose to decorate with live Christmas trees to be diligent about watering their trees both before and after the holidays. "When a Christmas tree dries out, it takes only a single spark from the fireplace, a draft that blows a candle flame too near, or a carelessly held cigarette to turn your holiday celebration into a tragedy," says Steen . "Beyond the damage from the fire itself, a Christmas tree fire, like any fire, can result in extensive smoke and water damage throughout your home, and can even be deadly."
As the holiday season moves into full swing, SERVPRO reminds homeowners to take common sense precautions based on a clear understanding of the potential danger to help prevent holiday traditions from turning into a holiday nightmare. For more fire prevention tips and information about fire and water damage restoration services, please visit www.SERVPRO.com.
Source: https://www.SERVPRO.com/141205
How to stay toasty this winter: Expert reveals 10 simple hacks to keep your house warm (and save you money)
11/13/2017 (Permalink)
Heat your home and save money this winter.
Heating homes accounts for over 70 per cent of household energy consumption.
So reducing this figure – while keeping homes warm enough – not only cuts energy bills, but helps meet the carbon reduction commitments that governments strive to achieve.
So here are 10 simple tips for keeping your home warm for little or no extra cost – just in time for that severe weather warning.
1. USE YOUR CURTAINS
Heat from the sun is free so make the most of it.
Open your curtains and let the sunlight in during the day to make use of this free heat.
When it gets dark, shut your curtains, which act as another layer of insulation and keep warmth in your rooms.
You should also make sure you don't have any leaks or gaps so that the warm air can stay in and the cold air stays out – this also helps to reduce condensation.
2. USE TIMERS ON YOUR CENTRAL HEATING
The Centre for Sustainable Energy advises that programming your boiler to turn the heating on a little earlier – such as 30 minutes before you get up in the morning – but at a lower temperature is cheaper than turning it on just as you need it at a higher temperature.
This is because a boiler heats up at a constant speed whether you set your thermostat to 20°C (68°F) or 30°C (86°F).
But don't make the mistake of leaving your heating on low all day – because then you're just paying for heat when you don't need it.
3. MOVE YOUR SOFA
It might feel great to have your favourite seat in front of the radiator, but it's absorbing heat that could be warming your home.
By moving it away from the radiator, hot air can circulate freely.
The same goes for your curtains or drying clothes – keep them away from the radiator so that you can get the most out of your heat source.
4. MAXIMISE YOUR INSULATION
When it comes to heat, around 25 per cent is lost through the roof.
This can be easily reduced by installing 25cm of insulation throughout your loft.
It's also worth seeing what's going on in your walls, as around a third of the heat in an uninsulated home is lost this way.
Although it's not as cheap to install as loft insulation, cavity wall insulation could save up to £160 ($198) a year in heating bills.
It's also worth checking with your energy supplier to see if they have any insulation schemes running – which can sometimes mean cheap or free installation.
5. WRAP UP WARM
If you have a hot water tank, make sure it is properly lagged – or insulated.
This will keep the water warmer for longer, and reduce heating costs.
The Energy Community reckons that insulating an uninsulated water tank could save up to £150 ($185) a year – but even just upgrading your tank's 'old jacket' will help to save money.
6. TURN DOWN THE DIAL
This may seem a little counter-intuitive, but bear with me.
The World Health Organisation previously recommended a minimum temperature of 21°C (70°F) in the living room, but Public Health England revised this to 18°C (61°F) in 2014.
And research shows that turning your thermostat down by 1°C (34°F) could cut your heating bill by up to 10 per cent.
So keep the dial at 18°C (61°F), save money and avoid the negative impacts of a cold home.
7. BLOCK OUT THE DRAUGHTS
Even a simple solution such as a making your own sausage dog draught excluder will help keep the warmth in your home.
The Energy Saving Trust estimates that DIY draught-proofing your doors, windows and cracks in the floor could save £25 ($31) per year.
You can do this yourself for very little cost.
Self-adhesive rubber seals around doors and windows and door draught excluders are relatively cheap and easy to install.
So it's worth getting those doors and windows sealed before winter properly kicks in.
8. INSTALL THERMOSTATIC RADIATOR VALVES
Research at the University of Salford has shown that installing heating controls and theromostatic radiator valves results in energy savings of 40 per cent compared to a house with no controls.
These work by allowing you to programme your heating to come on at predefined times – so you only use energy when you need it.
New smart thermostats can also be controlled remotely via your mobile so you can turn on your heating on the way home, ensuring it's nice and toasty when you arrive.
9. UPGRADE YOUR BOILER
If your boiler is more than 10 years old, it may be time to replace it with a new, more efficient model.
Depending on your old boiler type and house, you could save up to £350 ($433) with a new A-rated condensing boiler – which uses less energy to produce the same amount of heat.
Plus, if it's new, you're less likely to have any issues going into the winter season.
10. REFLECT THE HEAT
Radiator panels are relatively cheap, easy to install, and ensure that heat from your radiators warms up your room and not your walls.
They work by reflecting the heat back into the room.
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-3920256/How-stay-toasty-winter-Expert-reveals-10-simple-hacks-house-warm-save-money.html#ixzz4uNbpj6Zi
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National Preparedness Month
9/11/2017 (Permalink)
American Red Cross
Create a Family Game Plan
In an emergency, every second counts- that’s why it’s crucial to have a game plan, and why this year’s National Preparedness Month theme is “Don’t Wait Communicate.”
This September, as part of National Preparedness Month, the Red Cross encourages all Americans to develop a family game plan. Get started using the steps below!
Check with your local chapter for trainings and events in your community.
Steps to Create a Family Game Plan
Download Apps
Make a Plan
Get a Kit
How Red Cross Supports National Preparedness Month
Different types of disasters and emergencies happen in communities across the country, but there are key steps that every household can take to be better prepared for them. If you do nothing else this month, take time to create a disaster plan including a home fire escape plan.
All Red Cross regions are celebrating National Preparedness Month by implementing programs in communities throughout the county. Some examples of our work include:
- Conducting in-home visits to test and install smoke alarms and provide fire safety and disaster education
- Presenting The Pillowcase Project, a youth preparedness program sponsored by Disney, to thousands of 3rd-5th grade children across the country.
- Participating in America’s PrepareAthon! by working collaboratively with local government entities to support community-specific initiatives, like registrations for emergency notification systems
- Encouraging households with children to download the free Monster Guard app, which teaches youth about preparedness through a fun game
- Serving as a NOAA Weather-Ready Nation AmbassadorTM
- Collaborating with United States Fire Administration on the Fire Is Everyone’s FightTMcampaign, and planning smoke alarm installation events during Fire Prevention Week
Source: American Red Cross http://www.redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies/national-preparedness-month
Why Do We Celebrate Labor Day?
9/4/2017 (Permalink)
Happy Labor Day
For a lot of people, Labor Day means two things: a day off and the end of summer. But why is it called Labor Day? Labor Day is a day set aside to pay tribute to working men and women. It has been celebrated as a national holiday in the United States and Canada since 1894.
Labor unions themselves celebrated the first labor days in the United States, although there's some speculation as to exactly who came up with the idea. Most historians credit Peter McGuire, general secretary of the Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners and a cofounder of the American Federation of Labor, with the original idea of a day for workers to show their solidarity. Others credit Matthew Maguire, later the secretary of Local 344 of the International Association of Machinists in Paterson, N.J.
The first Labor Day parade occurred Sept. 5, 1882, in New York City. The workers' unions chose the first Monday in September because it was halfway between Independence Day and Thanksgiving. The idea spread across the country, and some states designated Labor Day as a holiday before the federal holiday was created.
President Grover Cleveland signed a law designating the first Monday in September as Labor Day nationwide. This is interesting because Cleveland was not a labor union supporter. In fact, he was trying to repair some political damage that he suffered earlier that year when he sent federal troops to put down a strike by the American Railway Union at the Pullman Co. in Chicago, IL. That action resulted in the deaths of 34 workers.
In European countries, China and other parts of the world, May Day, the first day in May, is a holiday to celebrate workers and labor unions. Before it became an international workers holiday, May Day was a celebration of spring and the promise of summer.
Membership in labor unions in the United States reached an all-time high in the 1950s when about 40 percent of the work force belonged to unions. Today, union membership is about 14 percent of the working population. Labor Day now carries less significance as a celebration of working people and more as the end of summer. Schools, government offices and businesses are closed on Labor Day so people can get in one last trip to the beach or have one last cookout before the weather starts to turn colder.
Source: HowStuffWorks
School Emergency Plans
8/21/2017 (Permalink)
School Emergency Plans
Like individuals and families, schools, daycare providers, workplaces, neighborhoods and apartment buildings should all have site-specific emergency plans.
Ask about plans at the places where your family spends the most time: work, school and other places you frequent. If none exist, consider volunteering to help develop one. You will be better prepared to safely reunite your family and loved ones during an emergency if you think ahead, and communicate with others in advance.
For more information on working together, visit Citizen Corps.
Schools and Daycare
If you are a parent, or guardian of an elderly or disabled adult, make sure schools and daycare providers have emergency response plans.
Visit Ready Kids for more information.
- Ask how they will communicate with families during a crisis.
- Ask if they store adequate food, water and other basic supplies.
- Find out if they are prepared to "shelter-in-place" if need be, and where they plan to go if they must get away.
For more information on developing emergency preparedness plans for schools, please visit the U.S. Department of Education:
Credit: Ready.gov
Cozy Up to Colder Weather: 5 Ways to Prepare Your Home for Fall and Winter
9/20/2016 (Permalink)
1. CLEAN OUT THE GUTTERS
All the leaves and grime that you neglected while you were out swimming, hiking, or riding your bicycle this summer have built up in your gutters. If left full of debris, clogged gutters and drains can form ice dams that prevent your drainage systems from working properly. This can lead to water seeping into your home, which—as seen in the Conquering Moisture blog—can lead to all sorts of issues and extra energy costs. Save yourself the hassle of repairing a leak by simply cleaning your gutters and drains now. When you do, run water through the gutters to check for misalignments that could also cause water damage.
2. KEEP THE OUTSIDE AIR OUT AND THE INSIDE AIR IN
We talk about this a lot, but it is hugely important for your energy savings to ensure there are no air leaks in your home. Warm air will escape out of any cracks and can make your heating system work harder and cost you more to heat your home. Use caulk to seal cracks and openings between stationary house components like a door frame and weatherstripping to seal components that move like an operable window.
3. SHOW SOME TLC TO YOUR FURNACE
Your furnace may be a distant memory since you last powered it on, but before the cold weather descends and you must reluctantly switch it on, give it some TLC. Clean your furnace annually each autumn. Sediment build-up can cause your system to work less efficiently or potentially become a fire-hazard. Cleaning your system and getting it inspected will reduce the risks.
During the winter try to change your filter regularly; a dirty filter will decrease air flow and energy-efficiency. And if your furnace is ready to be replaced, buy an energy-efficient model. It will save you money and energy each month!
4. GET YOUR DUCTS IN A ROW
Your ducts are often times out of sight, out of mind, tucked away in the attic or basement, but a home with central heating can lose about 20% of the air that moves through the duct system. Make sure your ducts are in order by properly sealing and insulating them. Tightly sealed and insulated ducts can potentially reduce your annual energy bills by $120 or more!
5. LIGHT THE WAY
The fall and winter months mean less daylight. I know we are all keen on saving energy, but we don't want any falls while you carry in your groceries. Luckily, you can still use your outdoor lights without wasting money and energy. Because outdoor lights are typically left on for long periods of time, buying ENERGY SAVER products and bulbs to light your outdoor pathways or porches can save a lot of energy. ENERGY STAR even makes CFL and LED flood lights that can withstand snow and rain. As an extra energy-saving effort, look for ENERGY STAR products that come with automatic daylight shut-off and motion sensors. And be sure to decorate with LED holiday lights to reduce the cost of decorating your home for the winter holidays.
Colder weather is on its way, and using these tips will help you stay warm and cozy, while saving energy and money in your home. Stay tuned for part two with five more tips for getting your home ready for fall and winter!
Terlip, Paige. "Cozy Up to Colder Weather: 5 Ways to Prepare Your Home for Fall and Winter (Part 1)." Energy.Gov Energy Saver. U.S. Department Of Energy. September 24, 1014.
http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/cozy-colder-weather-5-ways-prepare-your-home-fall-and-winter-part-1